Seventy-five-year-old Abdul Majeed Zargar, a resident of Amda Kadal Jogiwan in Srinagar, stands as a rare custodian of a dying trade. For nearly fifty years, he has dedicated his career to crafting the Mukh, a hand-carved wooden shuttle that acts as an essential instrument in the creation of authentic Kashmiri Pashmina. The shuttle is responsible for carrying thread back and forth across the handloom, a fundamental movement in forming the intricate fabric.
Zargar’s journey into the craft began as a teenager searching for a sustainable livelihood. After unsuccessful stints in silver and knife making, he turned to producing Mukhs. He described the initial year of learning as exhausting, noting that he nearly abandoned the profession due to early struggles. His breakthrough came after a chance meeting with a trader in Khayam who introduced him to experienced weavers. Though these artisans pointed out flaws in his early work, they purchased three of his pieces for ₹40 to encourage him. Zargar later learned the traders had bought the defective items specifically to prevent him from quitting the field.
The craft has evolved significantly over the decades. According to Zargar, the price of his hand-carved shuttles has risen from the initial ₹40 to ₹1,800. In an effort to improve the longevity of his tools, he replaced the traditional iron components, which were prone to rusting, with brass. While factory-made shuttle boats have become more prevalent due to their lower costs and ease of availability, Zargar remains committed to his manual process, though he has begun training his son to ensure the knowledge survives beyond his own lifetime.
Key facts
- Abdul Majeed Zargar is a 75-year-old artisan based in Amda Kadal Jogiwan, Srinagar.
- The Mukh is a critical wooden shuttle used to carry weft yarn through warp threads in hand-weaving.
- Zargar has spent nearly 50 years perfecting his craft.
- Hand-carved Mukh shuttles currently sell for ₹1,800, a significant increase from the original price of ₹40.
- Kashmir Pashmina was registered as a Geographical Indication (GI) product on September 12, 2008.
Why it matters
The survival of the Mukh is intrinsically linked to the traditional weaving of Pashmina, a fabric iconic to Kashmir. As factory-made alternatives become the industry standard, the loss of skilled manual tool-makers threatens the traditional production methods of this GI-tagged craft. Zargar maintains that without these specialized shuttles, the authentic creation of Pashmina remains impossible.
Background
The production of a single Pashmina shawl is an intensive process involving 12 to 14 distinct manual stages conducted over several days to transform natural undercoat fibers from the Changthangi goat into the finished textile.
Source: Livemint, Times of India
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